Buying a car can be an intimidating experience. Here are a few ways you can get the best deal on a car and not feel that you’re on the losing end going into the negotiations.

Know What You Want

Don’t go to a dealership ready to buy until you know exactly what you want. It’s fine to test drive cars. In fact, test drive a bunch! That’s the best way to determine what type of car fits your needs and your budget. But don’t go with the idea that you just might buy a car after that test drive. That’s a good way to get caught up in the moment and be on the losing end of the deal.

Do Your Research

Whether you buy from a private owner or a car dealership, do your research before you buy. It sounds silly, but many people skip this all important step! It’s easy to get caught up in the excitement (or perhaps hassle) of buying a new or used car. But without knowing where you should go and what kind of deal you should shoot for, you are doing yourself and your bank account a great disservice.

Talk to your friends and family. What do they like or dislike about their vehicles? Once you determine what car you want, then start pricing it out. Online you can find the manufacturer’s price, as well as the retail. Look at your local weekend ads. Most of the dealerships show their current sales price. Use this as a guide only. And keep in mind the old adage, “if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.” Many dealers place ads to entice the buyers onto the lot. But that terrific price may belong to a single vehicle that “just” left their lot.

Come Prepared

Bring a calculator, pencil and paper with you. Salespeople won’t want to crunch numbers for you if they know you won’t like what you see. Keep asking for that interest rate and they’ll probably just change the subject. Don’t rely on muddied numbers from someone who isn’t looking out for your best interest. Rely on yourself and your own abilities to figure the numbers game. And bring a friend or family member for moral support. They’ll be strong when you can’t, and help you figure out if you’re getting a good deal.

First Things First

Talk overall sales price first. With a private seller, you only have to determine the sales price. But at a dealership, the salesperson will try to win you over with talks of low monthly payments. Don’t be fooled! You need to pin down the overall sales price first. Once you have a sales price you like in writing, then you can move onto monthly payments. That way you can determine the duration of payments and the interest rate. If you talk monthly payments first, the salesperson may have you at that terrific $250 a month payment you wanted. What you aren’t told is that your interest rate is 10% and you’ll be paying for 7 years!

Lastly, you can whip out the trade-in vehicle. If you bring that into the negotiations too early, the dealership will give you a bum deal. What might sound good early on will only be backed into your own car loan. For example, you are given $6000 for your trade-in. But what you don’t know is that the price of the new car is bumped up by $4000 and spread over the length of your loan, so that you really only get $2000 for that trade-in. So, if you get everything else in writing first and then pull out the trade-in, you know exactly what you are getting for your old car. (Read about Buying a Car with Bad Credit)

Keep One Foot Out The Door

Always be ready to leave. Don’t ever feel pressured to buy. In fact, the moment you feel pressure, you should walk out. You may be surprised to find the salesperson racing after you. You shouldn’t be. They want to sell you a car just as much as you want to buy one. Don’t feel bad about leaving the lot altogether. If they have your contact information, you will most likely get a call within a day or two with a better offer on the table. Don’t jump on the offer, however, unless it’s to your liking.

Keep Your Emotions In Check

Whether you are dealing with a private seller or a large dealership, leave your emotions at home. You may love that shiny black car more than your best friend, but you don’t want anyone else to know that. You want to come across as cool and collected while you wheel and deal. Once the seller knows you are emotionally attached and will do just about anything to get that car, he knows he has you in his grasp. Remember, there are other cars out there. And it’s only a car. Really.

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Replacing the battery in your car is a task that most anyone who is even a little handy with tools can accomplish. But remember that a battery is an energy storage device and any such device is capable of causing damage if it releases all of its energy at once so pay attention to the safety warnings below.

A car battery consists of a plastic case containing thin plates made of lead and other metals. The case is filled with sulfuric acid that covers the plates and causes a chemical reaction that produces electricity. The battery has two round metal cylinders that protrude from the top or side. These are the “posts” and provide the attachment points for the battery cables that carry the electricity to the engine. One of these posts will be marked with a positive (+) sign and the other with a negative (-) sign. Usually the cable attached to the positive terminal will be colored red while the negative cable will be black. However it not a good idea to trust this color coding since mechanics sometimes will use a black cable on the positive or vice-versa. Trust the markings on the battery case and double check by verifying that the negative (-) cable is attached directly to the engine or chassis.

Here’s the SAFETY WARNING. When working on a battery, never allow any conductive material, a metal wrench, a piece of wire or a metal sheet (including the cars hood, etc.) to touch both posts of the battery at once. Doing so creates a short circuit condition that will cause the battery to explode spraying chunks of lead, plastic and sulfuric acid all over whatever happens to be nearby. This can cause serious injury and even death. Also, don’t smoke or have any open flames near a battery. Batteries release hydrogen gas which is extremely flammable. Work on the battery is a well ventilated area.

Let’s begin the replacement process. First, examine the battery and cables. An accumulation of white or yellowish-white powder on the posts indicates corrosion caused by the battery acid reacting with the metal of the posts. You can clean this away with a cloth but use a cloth that can be discarded since the acid will destroy it. Remember the orientation of the battery since the new battery must go in exactly the same way.

The next step is to disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. It is important to do the negative cable first. Some cables have clamps that go around the upright battery posts while others have bolts that screw directly into the post. Corrosion may have eaten away at the bolts so you may have to use pliers or vise grips instead of a wrench. Fasten the cable out of the way so it can’t fall back and hit the battery or you then repeat the procedure for the positive cable.

The battery is held in by a strap across the top or side or by a small clamp near the bottom of the battery. Remove the bolts securing the clamps and the battery should be ready for removal. Again corrosion on the bolts may be a problem and be careful of short circuits caused by the straps touching the posts.

Wiggle the battery around to make sure it is free of the clamps and lift it out of the car. Batteries are heavy so have a good grip and a clear space to set it down quickly. The outside of the battery may have acid residue on it so don’t let it touch your clothes or skin. Wear gloves if possible and wash your hands as soon as possible.

Now inspect the battery compartment. If corrosion exists you can clean it with water in which you have dissolved some baking soda. If the battery cables are badly corroded you might want to replace them. Once the cleanup is complete, install the new battery by performing the removal steps in reverse. To prevent corrosion, you can coat the posts and other exposed metal with Vaseline or bearing grease. Auto parts stores also have spray-on coatings for this purpose. Since most batteries come precharged, you should now be ready to turn the key and drive on.

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